Monday, November 5, 2012

Vegans and eggs

In an essay on Ethical Egg Eating, heritage breeds, such as these Dominiques of Alice Armen's, get an optional afterthought:

4. (Optional) The Egg Is Laid by a Heritage Breed
The eggs supplied by factory farms as well as many small, local farms come from hens that have been bred not to brood — i.e., not to want to sit on, incubate and hatch their eggs with a view to mothering a brood of chicks. The behavior, after all, is an inconvenience to commercial farmers who want their hens to be as productive as possible laying eggs rather than warming them.
Out of his flock of 3,000 hens, Mr. Waters says that only 1 will hatch 5 or 6 eggs every year. Most of Ms. Alexandre’s hens, likewise, don’t go broody, but she also keeps a small flock of heritage breeds that do. (The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC), which works to conserve rare breeds and genetic diversity in livestock, maintains a list of heritage chicken breeds.)
This is where we enter a grayish area of right and wrong. Is it enough that the very hen who laid the infertile eggs you’re about to eat was raised humanely? Or is it wrong to eat eggs laid by a hen — however she was raised — of any breed that was explicitly created to be exploited?
I’m inclined to argue that it’s okay to eat eggs from any breed of hen as long as they were produced under otherwise happy circumstances. But for anyone who isn’t so inclined, your best bet is to get your eggs from a farmer who raises heritage breeds.
So as far as I understand, one can eat eggs without abandoning one’s ethics. The problem is that the more than 6.5 billion table eggs (i.e., eggs intended for human consumption) that are produced in this country every month are of the unethical type. So for many ethically-minded eaters, it’s simply easier to exclude eggs from their diet altogether rather than try to track down “good” eggs. But they are in fact out there for those who want them.

This is a consideration that probably wouldn't have gotten on the radar screen even a year ago. People are thinking these issues through and moving toward change. Thanks, Jan Cho, for sharing these issues with your readers.

It's one of the points that Jim Adkins is making in his Sustainable Poultry Network clinics. It's a tough slog for the producers who are blazing the trail, but they are on the right track. I'm excited to be participating in events during this time of change.

Friday, November 2, 2012

More drawbacks of industrial broilers

From World Poultry:

Broiler producers should be on the lookout for three emerging clinical conditions, said Philip Hammond, partner at Crowshall Veterinary Services.
Three emerging diseases to be aware of
Enterococcous septicaemia has stood out in the past six months, he says, presenting initially at three to 12 days. "You tend to see birds stargazing, or with twisted necks." Mr Hammond reported up to 4% flock mortality and, after five days, a spate of endocarditis and wry-neck. There can also be an increase in spinal abscesses.

Myopathy has also been on the increase over the past two years. Mainly found in older birds, post-30 days, it is detected at processing. Affected birds have "hard, white pectoral muscles". In some cases, 10% of a flock are affected, though only one breed at the moment, said Mr Hammond.

Finally, Mr Hammond described a hypoglycaemia complex affecting birds. Presenting between 14 and 30 days, the birds have increased mortality for around three to five days. "Sometimes mortality can be up to 5%." The birds display nervous symptoms, such as tremors, and post-mortem examinations can reveal orange to pink tissue and a streaked appearance to livers and kidneys.

"All three of these diseases are directly related to obesity and rapid growth," says Frank Reese of Good Shepherd Poultry Ranch. "Myopathy and endocarditis are both heart-related, because of the small heart crowded by large breast growth.  Hypoglycaemia is lower blood sugar, directly related to being obese."

Thursday, November 1, 2012

Sustainable Poultry Network

Jim Adkins brought his Sustainable Poultry Network clinic to San Luis Obispo this week. About a dozen enthusiastic poultry people came to get his advice and encouragement.

This is important work, helping people who are committed to bringing heritage chickens and turkeys to the market succeed. It's no small task -- the cost of raising a Cornish/Rock cross for six weeks is much less than raising a Barred Rock or a Jersey Giant for sixteen weeks or longer. But the public is ready to pay the difference for a better bird that they are confident is humanely raised.

Jim made the point that Cornish/Rock cross birds are not humane birds. They can't walk or breathe well and are in constant pain. Allowing them out on 'pasture,' whatever that may mean, doesn't make any difference to their unhappy lives. They still grow too fast for their bones to support them and suffer from heart and circulation problems. They simply aren't birds that can live any other way besides a short life in confinement.

Another of Jim's points about Cornish Rock crosses that also applies to hybrids such as Freedom Rangers is that they are not sustainable or local. Because they are hybrids, they can't reproduce a second generation, a point I've made in this blog and in other writings. The grower is tied to a supplier who will sell them chicks each year, ship them in from some other place. There's nothing local about them.

"Our goal is to never ship another chick," he said.

I agree completely, but in the interim,  I won't condemn the good in favor of the perfect. I used my own experience to assure these breeders and growers that if they feel that they need to spend a season raising Cornish Rock crosses or Freedom Rangers, they should do it. Having a couple of Cornish Rock crosses years ago, the legacy of a high school class project for one of my daughter's friends, educated me in ways hearing about them never could. I observed them sit by the food dish and eat, growing ever larger, until they simply died. I put them in the garbage.

We all learn from every experience. I know there are a lot of poultry growers who are profoundly disturbed by the work they now find themselves doing, as the farmer in the documentary Food, Inc. recounted.

Chef Steve Pope also attended. I'll write about his work tomorrow.

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

Ocellated Turkeys

I spent the past week at the Society of Environmental Journalists annual conference. This year it was held in Lubbock Texas. That sounds unlikely, but it was a great place to learn about drought and water use.

I also had the opportunity to meet Jon McRoberts, who is doing research on Ocellated Turkeys. He's the researcher who is studying those unusual birds, found only in the Yucatan. I wrote about them and his research in 2010. The article isn't posted online, so I posted it below. This photos is from Ian Waterman in England. More photos are available at http://www.texaspeafowl.com/DSC_5449.JPG.

Ocellated Turkeys

Whirring wings flash iridescent bronze and green as the birds flutter out of the tropical forest into a quiet clearing. An occasional cluck, whistle or gobble softly indicates their presence, otherwise hardly noticeable as they scratch for seeds among the grasses, their bright blue heads held down. They are Ocellated turkeys, southern cousins of the Yucatan to our North American Wild turkeys.

Males and females are similar in plumage, unlike North American turkeys. Their name refers to the blue and bronze ocelli on their tails, eye-shaped markings such as peacocks display on theirs. Males are an inch or so taller and half again heavier than females. Their dark red legs are six inches or longer, compared with the females’ less than five inches. Males weigh 11 to 12 pounds, compared to 6 to 7 pounds for females most of the year. The females get up to 8 pounds before egg-laying season in the spring.

Males grow spurs, half an inch in their first year, an inch and a half as two year olds, and two inches or longer as mature birds. Those who have heard the calls, foot-drumming and wing-beats find them difficult to describe, but the Cornell Lab of Ornithology’s Macaulay Library has several recordings available online, http://macaulaylibrary.org/browse/common/12008953. Linda Macaulay narrates the recordings she made in 1997.

Their blue heads are dotted with round orange to red fleshy nodules, more pronounced on males than females. Plumage is iridescent bronze-green with bluish gray tail feathers, sporting those bright blue eyes. No chance of mistaking this colorful forest bird for a Thanksgiving turkey.

As showy as they are, they were – and are still—eaten by locals. The Maya valued Ocellated turkeys for ceremonial banquets. Occupants of the palace at Mayapan, occupied for centuries before Europeans arrived, ate enough of them that 70 percent of the identifiable bones excavated from the site are from Ocellated turkeys. Although the Ocellated turkey was never domesticated as the wild turkey was, the bones at this site show the increased size that suggests they were kept captive and fattened. On the island of Cozumel, where the Spanish and the Maya first met, both Ocellated and domesticated turkeys were eaten.

Now their status is Near Threatened. The National Wild Turkey Federation hopes that with some attention, the species can recover, as North American Wild turkeys have.

“It’s a beautiful bird, a charismatic animal,” said Jon McRoberts, lead researcher for a group from Texas Tech University, National Wild Turkey Federation, the Mexican government’s SEMARNAT conservation agency, (http://www.semarnat.gob.mx/Pages/inicio.aspx), and the Union of Wildlife Management Areas studying Ocellated turkeys in their native habitat. “It’s difficult for folks to think of it in the sights of sport hunters, but the value hunting creates is saving the lives of these birds.”
McRoberts is doing the basic research to determine population levels, range, habitat needs and other information to earn his Ph.D. from Texas Tech University in Lubbock. 2010 was his first of four planned field seasons. He spent six months in Campeche, Mexico, returning to Lubbock to organize and analyze the data he collected in the field. His work will provide the basis for planning the Ocellated turkeys’ future.

Ocellated turkeys have a blue-colored head and neck with distinctive orange to red nodules, which are more pronounced on males. Neither sex has a beard. The head of the male also has a fleshy blue crown behind the snood. During breeding season, this crown becomes enlarged and the coloring of the nodules is more pronounced. The bright red eye-ring also becomes more pronounced during breeding season.

He's using radio collars to track the birds, on a large private ranch in Campeche and in the agricultural lands around Cano Cruz, a small town,. Both sites provide examples of different kinds of habitat, the open grasslands and tropical jungle. Different locales require different capture methods. On the open fields, he uses a cannon net. In the jungle, he uses flexible cloth netting traps baited with corn. He checks the traps three times a day to avoid injury or distress to the birds.

“As investigators, we have a responsibility to make sure that the birds are not in the trap any longer than necessary,” he says.

The Mexican state of Campeche on the Yucatan Peninsula is economically poor. Locals hunt the birds to feed the family. Managing the Ocellated turkeys for sport hunting is intended to bring North American dollars to the region.

“Sportsmen will pay several thousand dollars to come down here and hunt,” McRoberts says. “The local people will see that the bird has more value than one night’s meal.”

He thinks the population is already large enough to support some hunting, although he doesn’t yet have the data to support that. He saw flocks of over 300 during the 2010 field season. As North American Wild turkeys recovered from over-hunting that decimated the population, he believes Ocellated turkeys can, too.

“So much is unknown,” he said. “I get the idea they are doing pretty well.”

Tourists often see Ocellated turkeys at Mayan archaeological sites. The birds there have become habituated to humans, allowing people to approach to within five or ten feet. McRoberts is studying less accommodating birds in more challenging circumstances. Gasoline is often in short supply. It’s hot, and the roads are rough.

“I’ve had my share of flat tires,” he said. “I had to walk out of the jungle to get a new tire.”

Because Ocellated turkeys are listed as Near Threatened on the Convention in International Trade in Endangered Species, special permits are required to bring trophy birds back to the U.S. However, no permits are needed to purchase or keep live birds. Sid Drenth keeps several pairs at his Fantasia Ranch in Weatherford, Texas.

He finds them flighty and wild. To avoid disturbing them, he houses them in a pen protected by large shrubs. Because he paid $800-$1,500 each for them, he

The Ocellated turkey is easily distinguished from its North American cousin. The body feathers of both sexes are an iridescent bronze-green color. Hens may appear duller in color with more green than bronze. The breast feathers of the sexes do not differ so they cannot be used to determine the sex.

“Anything that walks by can spook them,” he said.

Beautiful as they are, they’re too wild and sensitive to make good backyard birds. Drenth has never been able to breed them successfully, despite his experience with other exotic birds. He keeps peafowl, cranes, ibises, curassows and other African birds. Few people ask to buy one from him.

“If this is something you really like, be prepared for a loss,” he said.

Several zoos in the South and Southwest have Ocellated turkeys on display. Few of them have bred the birds successfully, either.

Their stunning plumage decorates the trees of the Yucatan jungle, delicately venturing onto the open grass to eat and breed. Perhaps that’s enough for this unusual native American turkey.

For more information, see the Fantasia Ranch Texaspeafowl website: www.texaspeafowl.com, or write to Sid & Beverly Drenth, P.O. Box 1029, Weatherford, TX 76086-1029; texaspeafowl@aol.com.

Monday, October 15, 2012

Traditional poultry workshop coming to SLO



Regional HENHOUSE Coaching Clinic
San Luis Obispo, California
October 29th - 30th 2012

Monday, October 29th
10:00am - Clinic begins!

10:00am - 12:00pm - "Strategy for Multiplication and Breeding for Sustainability"   
                                            Mr. Jim Adkins, Sustainable Poultry Specialist
                                            Mrs. Christine Heinrichs, Author & Poultry Historian   

12:00pm - 1:00pm - Lunch

1:00pm - 5:00pm  - "Breeding & Selecting Standard Bred Poultry for Preservation"
                                           On Farm Coaching - Babe's Birds Farm in Nipomo, CA
                                       
6:00pm - Dinner Reception and Awards!

Tuesday, October 30th
9:00am - 12:00pm - "California Laws and Regulations - Processing & Selling Poultry Products"
                                        - National Poultry Improvement Plan (NPIP)
                                        - California Department of Food & Agriculture
12:00pm - Lunch

1:00 - 5:00pm -  "Secrets to Cooking & Marketing Heritage Poultry" 
                                Mr. Steve Pope, Nationally Recognized Heritage Chef

5:00pm - Clinic Ends!


 
Location of Clinic:
UC Cooperative Extension
2156 Sierra Way Suite C 
San Luis Obispo, CA 93401

Location of  "On Farm Coaching"
Tony & Erin Krier - Babe's Birds Farm 
160 Swallow Lane
Nipomo, CA 93444


Turkeys of many colors

Local turkeys around Cambria display the variety of colors that occur naturally in turkeys. Turkeys are all the same species. They differ in plumage.


This light colored turkey has been sighted in our neighborhood since he was hatched last year. I wondered whether his color in the wild would be a disadvantage, making him more visible to predators, but thus far he's doing fine.






I wonder if he will have a flock this coming year and pass on his attractive and unusual coloring to a new generation.

Texas chickens

Peggy Henkel-Wolfe writes about local chicken keeping in the Denton Record-Chronicle: