4. (Optional) The Egg Is Laid by a Heritage Breed

Out of his flock of 3,000 hens, Mr. Waters says that only 1 will hatch 5 or 6 eggs every year. Most of Ms. Alexandre’s hens, likewise, don’t go broody, but she also keeps a small flock of heritage breeds that do. (The American Livestock Breeds Conservancy (ALBC), which works to conserve rare breeds and genetic diversity in livestock, maintains a list of heritage chicken breeds.)
This is where we enter a grayish area of right and wrong. Is it enough that the very hen who laid the infertile eggs you’re about to eat was raised humanely? Or is it wrong to eat eggs laid by a hen — however she was raised — of any breed that was explicitly created to be exploited?
I’m inclined to argue that it’s okay to eat eggs from any breed of hen as long as they were produced under otherwise happy circumstances. But for anyone who isn’t so inclined, your best bet is to get your eggs from a farmer who raises heritage breeds.
So as far as I understand, one can eat eggs without abandoning one’s ethics. The problem is that the more than 6.5 billion table eggs (i.e., eggs intended for human consumption) that are produced in this country every month are of the unethical type. So for many ethically-minded eaters, it’s simply easier to exclude eggs from their diet altogether rather than try to track down “good” eggs. But they are in fact out there for those who want them.
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